Hot House With Dogs

Dear Liz,

My dog is lazy and spends much of his day inside.   The house gets hot quickly now that summer has finally arrived.  What’s the best temp to keep fido comfortable, without donating an arm, leg and tail to the electric company?

Signed,

Hot Dog

Dear Hotdog:  Well, the temps have been fairly ok but that humidity makes it just SO miserable for everyone – including Fido (and even Kitty!).

Not sure what the best temperature is, but I’d guess it’s what ever is comfortable for you.  Now, if you’re like me and you hate air conditioning, your pets may not agree with what I just said!  I’d guess around 70 is good.

If your pet has longer hair (dog or cat) and still seems uncomfortable in the heat and humidity, why not consider a summer shave?  (You may want to leave this up to a professional, though – especially for Kitty!)   I know from experience that certain dogs (and cats) love it when they’re shaved down for the summer. Remember that their coat is there to insulate them but that sometimes it can be in a bad way.  Shaving them down allows the release of heat more easily from their bodies.

One drawback, though, is that your pet may become more susceptible to sunburn!  Yep, pets get sunburn, too.  That insulating coat protects them from the sun’s rays as well, so make sure your pet is not kept outside for extended periods of time.

My pets also enjoy the coolness of the kitchen floor.  If your pet has a favorite place to lie down, consider a small fan to circulate the air around him / her.  My guys actually face the fan and seem to smile as the air blows into their faces (weird, gotta tell ya!).

Lastly, if you use a plastic kennel for your pet, please consider replacing it with a wire one.  The plastic kennels act as insulators as well and can make over-heating a real problem for your pet.  The plastic ones don’t allow air circulation very well, either.

Hope that helps!

Dog Shedding

Dear Liz,

The tumble weeds of shedding dog hair are rolling through my house like it’s the Old West. A few friends are saying the same of their dogs. Why? What do I do?

Signed, Busy Broom

Dear Busy: Yepper! Everyone I talk with this summer says the same thing. Dogs are shedding in a BIG way. Not sure why but I’m thinking it might have something to do with the crazy weather we’ve been having.

Dogs usually shed in the spring and again a little bit in the fall. The reason they shed in the spring is to get rid of their winter coats and to cool them off in preparation for the summer heat. I’ve never figured out why they shed in the fall, though!

Anyway, this spring’s shed seems to have lasted into the summer in a big way. Their coats seem to be coming off in large sheets, like a sheep shearing!

Now, on to what you should do. There are many products out there labeled as shedding preventatives, or shedding reducers. Since the reason for the shed is to let the dog be cooler, it seems that preventing or reducing shedding just works against nature. I’d avoid these products for shedding reasons, but they do give the dog a nice coat!

I’d suggest just keeping up on brushing. I’ve found with my dogs that getting a fine comb and going against the hair growth pattern gets more out than going with the hair growth. I’ve also found that my dogs like it more! They do have “shedding combs” out there as well – but I like just a regular dog comb. Pick what you like, though and go for it.

Giving a bath actually helps in the shedding, too. For the first 24 hours after a bath, though, there will be an immense amount of hair flowing through your house, though! But it will be easier to comb out, too. Oh, and one more thing. We bought a Shop Vac instead of a vacuum cleaner. It’s GREAT for getting hair and it doesn’t clog the filter as much! There will be an end to this madness, though, come winter! Or at least I HOPE so!

Fat Cat

DEAR LIZ,

MY PET HAS BEEN PACKING ON A FEW EXTRA LB’S.  WHAT IS CONSIDERED OVERWEIGHT FOR PETS?  ANY THOUGHTS ON A DIET PLAN?

SIGNED,

TUBBY TABBY

Dear Tubby:  Well, it’s very easy for dogs and cats to become overweight!  I have a cat now, who is still considered a kitten, but is overweight per our veterinarian!

So the secret to knowing if your pet is overweight is in the ribs.  Standing over your pet, run your hands over his or her ribs, along his or her side.  If you can easily feel ribs (without being able to SEE them) your pet is ok.  If you can NOT feel ribs your pet is most likely overweight.

With cats, even looking under them can help.  Does your cat have a hanging belly?  Well, that’s not just fur down there!  It’s FAT!  And it’s swaying in the wind!

So what do you do?  Well, the same thing you’d do for people applies to pets.  Diet and exercise.

Obviously I want you to first consult with your veterinarian to make sure there is no underlying issue.

Second, if your veterinarian says all’s ok, start with the diet.  No one said cats need to be able to eat all the time.  If you ate like most cats, you’d be obese, too!  Twice a day feeding is just fine.  What Kitty doesn’t finish in a few minutes, take away.  Most likely Kitty will pester you for a while until his or her stomach gets used to the difference in feeding.

Same goes for Fido – Smaller amounts are better (your veterinarian can tell you how much).  Don’t go by what the bag of dog food says – believe me, that’s for VERY active dogs.  And dry food is actually better and has less fat than wet food.

Fido bugging you between feedings?  Try carrots, etc., for “snacks” They’re great to chomp on and have almost nothing in calories.  Remember that dog biscuits are VERY high in calories!!

There is low fat cat and dog food available.  Remember, though, that your pet is considered a senior at about 5 years old so even switching to a senior food might help.

Now for exercise – MOVE IT!!!  Cats love to chase things.  Put a ball of aluminum foil on the end of a string and toss it around!  Got a fishing pole?  Put the ball on the end of the line and cast away!

Dogs love movement, too – so WALK IT!  My dog loves my treadmill, by the way, but I always have to supervise him on it!!

Bottom line is that we over feed our pets all the time.  So keeping them trim and fit is vital to their health and well being.  Fat animals live shorter lives with higher medical bills.  Check with your vet to see if YOUR pet is overweight and then follow what the vet says to make sure you both live happily ever after.

Smelly Pooches

Dear Liz, My pooch loves a good swim in the local pond and enjoys rolling in fragrant items when out for walks. Will frequent baths damage his coat?

Signed, Eau De Wet Dog

Dear Wet Dog:

Well, frequent bathing can be a problem if you use the wrong shampoo or don’t rinse well. It will be more of an issue for Pooch’s skin vs his coat.

Shampoos with harsh chemicals or shampoo that’s not completely rinsed off will leave a residue on Pooch’s skin that can cause itching and flaking, much like dandruff in people.

Before resorting to a shampoo, try brushing Pooch’s coat. Most of the dirt (from rolling in things) stays on the surface or can be brushed out with a stiff bristle brush. Don’t use the wire ones as you might scratch Pooch’s skin and introduce bacteria into his system.

Best to either buy shampoo from a professional groomer or cut what ever shampoo you use with 50% water. That way the shampoo can be rinsed better. And don’t forget the conditioner! It works much the same way as it does on your hair and will leave Pooch’s coat much softer. Make sure, though, that you do a complete rinse.

A few notes about your e-mail, though. First, watch closely for ear infections. Swimming in pond water or even frequent bathing can introduce lots of bacteria into the ear canal, causing bacterial infections, etc., which will result in nasty smelling and itchy ears. When you do come back from the pond, make sure you rinse Pooch’s ears with an ear cleansing solution (available at your vet’s) and make sure they dry well, especially if your dog’s ears hang vs stand up.

Also, when Pooch rolls in “that stuff”, he’s also rolling in stuff that you don’t want to have introduced into your home! Again, you don’t know what that “stuff” is made of (bacteria, intestinal parasite eggs, salmonella laden, rotting what-evers), so keep Pooch OUTTA there! If you know where the location is of the enticing pile, keep Pooch on a tighter leash until that temptation has been passed by.

So hope that helps. I know it’s a problem that many encounter in the warmer weather!

Licensing Fido

Dear Liz,

I’m not a scofflaw, but I’ve never registered my dog with the town I live in.

Why should I?

Signed,

Animal Delinquent

Dear Delinquent:

Well, the beginning, middle and end to your answer is that it’s the law.  However, to explain more as to why it helps, I’ll get into it further.

When you license your dog, it gives the dog an identifying number.  Should your dog wander away and someone finds it, that number will be the identifier that will get Fido back to you asap. This will save you impound fees and the possibility that your dog doesn’t get returned.  That number is your dogs and your dog’s only for the year starting July 1^st and ending June 30^th the next year.

Dog licenses are not the same as Rabies tags.  The dog licenses come from the Town Clerk’s office and the Rabies tag from your veterinarian.

Fees for dog licenses are different for those that are spayed or neutered and for those that are not.  It’s more expensive (by about $10.00) to license unaltered dogs.  Not sure why, but it is.

All dogs over the age of 6 months must be licensed in the town in which they reside. Cats are not required to be licensed.  FYI, though, both dogs and cats are required, by law, to be vaccinated against Rabies.

The fees collected do help your town’s budget, too.  Part of the fees collected from dog licenses goes back into the town’s pocket, helping their expenses.

So hopefully that helps explain why it’s important to license Fido.  One more thing, though, to consider is that the fine for having an unlicensed dog is about $60.00 last time I checked.

Hope that helps!

Spring Babies

Dear Liz:

My family and I were out for a walk and found a nest of baby rabbits.  We left them there but keep wondering if we did the right thing.  What should we have done?

Signed,

Peter Cottontail in Berlin

Dear Peter:

Every year around this time wildlife rehabilitators and nature centers are flooded with calls about “orphaned” baby animals that folks have found in their yards, in the woods, in the fields, etc.  And before the nature centers or rehabilitators can say “leave it alone”, these animals are brought to them, often very traumatized, by very well-meaning people.

When you find an animal or bird that you suspect has been left by its mother, take a DEEP breath and STEP AWAY FROM THE CRITTER!  Yep, you heard right.  The reality is that most of these “orphans” are not really orphaned at all.  Mom is just a heartbeat away (probably scared of you being so near her kids) and will return to help her offspring just as soon as you leave.  And by that I don’t just mean stepping away, I mean REALLY away.

If it’s a baby bird and you can locate the nest (and you’re SURE it’s the right one!) gently put baby bird back into the nest and leave the area.  If you can’t locate the nest, put baby in a bush, high enough up so that the local cat can’t easily get to it.  Baby bird will soon be chirping for its mom.

Baby deer are very common.  Momma Doe will leave them in what she thinks is a very secluded, safe spot.  Baby Deer is instructed to stay still in that spot, which they usually do unless something causes them to bolt (as in you coming too close!).  But Momma Doe will be back for her child.  She’s just off munching.  So leave Baby Deer alone.  Momma will be back.

Raccoons, squirrels and rabbits are actually out and about on their own at a very small size. Most times, they’re out and about when they’re only the size of an adult’s palm.  Parents still stay nearby, but the babies can fend for themselves at that age if needed.  Rabbits and squirrels are not really considered Rabies Vector Species (carriers of the Rabies virus) but raccoons are, so if you do see one you’re thinking is abandoned, it’s best to leave it there and call in for help (animal control, police department, nature center, etc).  If you DO need to move it or capture it, make SURE to wear GLOVES.  Do NOT touch baby raccoons (or gophers, or skunks, etc) with bare hands.   Rabies is a virus transmitted through saliva or body fluids and can be transmitted to you through something as small as a hangnail, so USE GLOVES.  And remember that these babies can die of shock so put them into a box with a towel over it to keep it quiet.

Opossums are about the same as raccoons but if you have to “rescue” this orphan, put it in a knit cap.  Opossums like that “pouch” feeling and find this very comforting.  They’ll also froth at the mouth and make weird noises – this is their way of telling you to go away.  They, too, are on their own at a very young age so if they’re out walking around, leave them alone.
Bears:  Ok, do I NEED to discuss this?

The point I’m trying to make is this:  Baby animals have existed for eons without our help.  They’ve been born, grown up and died without so much as a human voice having been heard.  I do understand that its human nature to want to help keep the baby from harm, but often times “rescuing” the baby causes MORE harm than good.
If you do find and animal that you TRULY believe is in dire danger, the best course of action is to back off and have someone call for help while you keep an eye on the baby (from a good, safe distance).  Most police departments have lists of wildlife rehabilitators who are in your area and who will come and help.
One more incentive:  per Connecticut General Statutes it is ILLEGAL to have or keep a wild animal in your possession unless you are a LICENSED wildlife rehabilitator.  Last time I checked, the fine for having a wild animal in your possession is ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS PER DAY, PER ANIMAL.
Nuff said?  Thought so!

Traveling With Fido

Dear Liz,

Any suggestions about researching furry friendly destinations?

Signed,

No Dogs Allowed

Dear No Dogs:

Well, summer travel is always a wonderful thing, with or without Fido along.  If you choose to take him with you, please plan ahead – WAY ahead – as some hotels, Inns and camp grounds do not allow pets.  Others might allow them, but will charge extra.

If you’re a triple-A member, they used to provide books on hotels that are pet friendly.  Or you can go to the internet and look up hotels in the area of your destination.  Most will tell you if they’re pet friendly.  But again, make sure you actually talk with a person AT that hotel to confirm everything.

If you plan on camping, make sure you know and obey the rules they have there for Fido or you could be facing the quick end to your vacation.  There is nothing worse (and I know first hand) than trying to sleep with an obnoxiously barking dog in the same camp ground.  If Fido’s not the quietist of pooches, best to think about leaving him at Camp Home.

Make sure you bring a crate or kennel with you as there will be times when you will leave Fido in the hotel room (while you get breakfast downstairs?).  Make sure to bring something to keep him amused, too!

What ever you decide, make sure of a few things before you go…

• Keep identification ON Fido – Actually write your name and cell phone number (as your home number will do no good!) ON Fido’s collar.  That way, if he does get lost, your number will be readily available. Use a laundry marker.

• Get vaccinations updated.  Rabies and Bordatella (kennel cough) are the most frequently needed, although making sure Lyme, etc., is updated is also a great idea.  Remember that most vaccinations take 30 days to become effective.

• Keep water and food with you.  Bring your own water as a change in water from hotel to hotel or camp ground, etc., can bring about diarrhea.  And THAT’S no fun!!  Stress can bring about diarrhea, too, so be aware of that.  Check with your vet to see if they have any suggestions for anti-diarrheal meds you can pack.

• Bring other medications. Things like car-sickness meds (check with your vet) are great to have along.  Even if Fido doesn’t get sick on short rides, you don’t want THAT to surprise you!

• Keep extra leashes, etc., with you as Fido just may get bored and chew through one or two!  If you’re camping, bring a tie-out, too.

• Bring any medical supplies for those “just in case” moments.  Gauze, tape, etc., like you’d bring for the kids.  Cause ya JUST never know what they’re going to get into!

• I’d bring a bottle of hydrogen peroxide.  My vet has recommended it in case my guys get into something they’re not supposed to.  And make sure, when you arrive at your destination that you find out where the nearest veterinary hospital is.

Traveling with Fido can be a great experience.  I know that when ever I go away, I always wonder if my crew is ok.  I do have someone actually live at my house when I travel but it’s just not the same!

Human Chew Toy

Dear Liz,

My husband and I recently adopted a shelter dog. He’s generally sweet, but he bites! The history we received gave no indication of problems. We plan to start a family soon, but want to make sure our dog is broken of this habit ahead of time. How should we handle?

Signed,
Human Chew Toy

Dear Chewie:

Well, I think I’d have to know more about the situations under which he bites. Basically, dogs bite for several reasons – fear, breed type, aggression, because they’ve been allowed to and dominance.
Fear biting is understood easily. If your dog feels its life is in eminent danger, he’s going to bite to protect himself.

If your dog’s breed is of a herding type, it is their nature to ‘herd’ by nipping.

Aggressive biting is not excusable. It may or may not come right after a growl or at least some warning. This is a nasty dog and I’m not thinking it would have been adopted out from any pound or shelter that wants to keep their liability insurance at a reasonable price. I have to say that I will not adopt out a dog that has shown serious aggression issues.

Dogs sometimes bite because they’ve been allowed to do so from puppy-hood. Having a cute, playful puppy nibble on your hands is often excused. What happens, though, is that the little puppy grows up and the owners forget to tell the pup that it is no longer ok to puppy chew / nip. The puppy is now an adult and the biting, once acceptable, is just a habit.

Dominance is biting to be assertive and to gain status on the chain of command. It can start from just “testing the waters” to all-out biting. This is the dog who sits on the furniture first, who goes out the door first, and who generally takes over as the leader of the family. Not good.
I’m thinking that you should keep a log as to when he bites and what immediately preceded the event. This will help you understand a little bit and it will help the trainer as well to get a better picture. Note if there are any warning signs, such as growls or stiffened stances. Also note what YOUR response was – Did you yell NO and turn your back (a good response)?

I’d say for sure that this dog needs to be brought into training asap. Taking over the dominance role yourselves is also a good start to showing your dog who is in control and who is not. See if some of these steps help to shake things up a bit in his world.

Eat first – the leader of the pack always does. And make sure he knows you’re eating first. He should be fed after you have eaten and cleared the table and no table scraps.

Go through the doorway first. Make him sit and stay while you go through and only allow him to go through AFTER you’ve cleared it. Remember, leaders go first, subordinates go last.

Keep a leash on him while he’s in the house. If he goes to sit up on the furniture (a pinnacle place in the dog world), pull the leash and him off. Then you sit on the furniture to show him that YOU are boss. He’s to stay OFF the furniture until his place in the pack is established. Keeping a leash on him at all times also allows you to grab the leash (instead of him, directly) and get him away from a situation you don’t like.

Too many pounds are filled with dogs that have been let run the house. Then, when the dog is about 2 years old, the owner throws his or her hands in the air and gives up because the dog is “awful”. I’d say that 95% of the dogs in pounds are there because of behavioral issues and that 95% of those can be corrected with proper training.
Remember that your dog is looking to you for boundaries and guidance. Getting this dog into training with a behaviorist (my preference for dogs with issues) asap will help you take back your territory (your house, your hands!). Don’t be surprised if there’s a struggle that goes on, though, as most will test you out to see if you’ll give in and give him back his “power”.

I wish you the best and hope you’ll let me know how things progress.

Toe Nails

Hi Liz, I recently took your advice and had my dogs nails clipped after hearing them as she walked across the hardwood floors. I brought her home and it still happened.

What next?

Signed, Noisy Paws

Dear Noisy Paws. Well, I first have to wonder if the quick on your dog’s nails has grown out, making short nails a tough thing to have. One of my dogs has very long quicks, which is the part of the nail that carries the blood supply, so every time we trim his nails back, we can only go so far.

The result is that his nails tend to click on the floor very quickly after having them trimmed. We’ve tried to “train” the quicks back by trimming the nails back a bit more each time but it hasn’t worked that well yet! Ask your groomer to clip the nails “show length” if possible. This is actually a shorter clip and may work for you.

If you do them yourself, though, watch out for nicking that quick – it does bleed! Use styptic powder or even baby powder on the toenail to stop the bleeding. Keep pressure on it until it stops. Also, walking your dog on pavement actually helps naturally file them back a bit. Dogs that tend to stay indoors and only run on grass don’t get the advantage of that pavement pedicure.

It does take a while to see results, but it’s worth it. Keeping dogs’ nails short is a task that can be a real pain, but clipping them every 4 weeks or sooner if you see they’re growing out faster, will help Fido maintain a healthy length. So take her out for a healthy “pavement pedicure” and see if that helps. It will make BOTH of you feel good! Thank you for your efforts! I commend your wanting to keep her as healthy as possible.

Swine Flu And Pets

Dear Liz,

We know swine flu can affect pigs and people… but should I be concerned about my dog and cat becoming ill?

Signed,

Sniffles

Dear Sniffles – Let’s look at the Swine Flu in general.

The Swine Flu starts with pigs. It’s actually common to have these outbreaks involving pigs during the colder months. The pigs become ill and one spreads it to another – much like people during “flu season”.

Now, pigs can transmit the flu to other pigs, as well as to humans which is what is in the news now. Normally the transmission from pig to people happens as a result of direct contact by a person to a sick pig.

Then that person can transmit the swine flu to another person, again through direct contact, etc., and on and on.

The swine flu, the avian flu, as well as the human flu, can be transmitted to pigs. What happens then is that the flu viruses can mix DNA and a different flu can be the result.

Now, as to whether or not your dog or cat can be infected with the swine flu is a mystery, at least to everyone I’ve asked. I can’t find any literature on the swine flu being spread to dogs or cats and my veterinarian can’t answer that, either.

I am going to keep an eye on the Center for Disease Control website to make sure I’m well informed, though. I’d suggest you do, too, so that we have no misconceptions. Their web site is CDC – Influenza (Flu) | Swine Influenza (Flu): General Information.

Wish I had better information for you. I guess that if we haven’t heard from the experts that it CAN be transmitted, it’s safe to say it probably can’t. I’d still go with the over-all consensus, though, and keep your pets away from animals that you know are ill. Keep your pets up to date on their vaccinations and always check with your veterinarian if your animal becomes ill.